Paul Kooiker

Untitled, Paul Kooiker, Paris Photo 2025

Paul Kooiker moves at the interface between fashion and art. He creates a new and idiosyncratic form of fashion and still life photography that has received international acclaim. Kooiker often exaggerates the shape of bodies to the extreme. Using artificial body extensions, wigs, and extravagant props as well as light, shadow, and fragmentation, he creates a unique visual language whose surreal undertone often recalls icons of photography and art history. Social themes such as diversity, body positivity or the fetishisation of bodies translate directly into Kooiker’s image production.

It was actually a fairly simple image of a ladder that made Kooiker one of my favourite exhibitors at Paris Photo 2025. He is more established as a fashion photographer as already discussed, but his adaptability to cross disciplines is inspiring and I find the simplicity of a single focus to be quite charming. There are so many ways the ladder can be interpreted which is the beauty of people’s opinions and circumstances. I personally see it as different routes in life leading to one clear pathway, portrayed in the shadows of the ladder rungs. It’s cleverly crafted lighting creates new considerations for us as an audience, instigating conversation through technicality and raw simplicity.

On further research, Kooiker’s portraiture and fashion shots are rather unique in comparison to anything I’ve seen. His odd approach to social issues catch the eye, especially when he uses a single subject as the only primary focus in his shots. It’s interesting how he is able to be influenced by art history yet forge his own photographic identity from the ashes, especially considering the demand for fresh concepts for Commercial Photography purposes. Similarly to his ladder shot, it is refreshing to see a photographer not bow down to the demand of fitting in stylistically and instead deciding to be influenced by art over modern trend.